Sankt Georgen Grüner Veltliner 2016

Roland Velich's 2016 Serious Wine from a Gorgeous Place (previously called Sankt Georgen Grüner Veltliner but declined as a quality wine by Austrian wine detectives) is chalky and reductive on the opening like a Jura wine and reveals lovely ripe white fruit intermixed with notes of pure chalk. Lush and elegant on the palate, this is a powerful, dense, tensioned, very mineral and salty white with lots of energy, stimulating tannins and a very long finish. This is a spectacular wine, and you have to shout that this is a Grüner Veltliner, because it doesn't taste like one. Sourced from three vineyards in Eisenstadt-Sankt Georgen (Kogel, Krainer and Hochberg), it's a pure terroir expression and is endlessly salty—a Côte des Blancs without bubbles. Bottled in June 2018, tasted August 2018. 95/100 - Parker.