Elsarn BRANDSTATT Riesling 2017

Brandstatt is my recultivation project in the Spitzer Graben, the coolest area of the Wachau and about 450 meters above sea level. The original mica schist vineyard, which had been long neglected, was replanted with Riesling following the restoration of the vineyard's terrace walls. My aspiration is to press the grapes from this age-old terraced vineyard into an uncompromising wine – a wine that expresses not as much the grape variety, but more the terroir and an old winemaking tradition. With the maceration as well as the maturation in local acacia barrels, perhaps this will be a wine just like those that were here long ago.

Unlike practically any other wine region, the Wachau is distinguished by its terraced vineyards with extremely old, dry stone walls. Not only do they represent the optical allure that the Wachau is so famous for, but they also are markedly responsible for the unique character of the Wachau´s wines. Manual care of the terraces is highly intensive (requiring 5 -10 times more work than in vineyards which can accommodate vehicles). And this is why many of the old terraces are in danger of being abandoned - something that would ultimately change the landscape of the Wachau in the future. So I made it my goal to acquire exposed terraces with mainly old vines and protect them from being cleared. Although this means pure handwork - no machines whatsoever – I am convinced that the qualities of the wines are so unique, so full of character and spectacular, that this work will be repaid many times over. Most of the vines are between 30 and 50 years old. Drinkability and age-worthiness are key to all work-related decisions. And working with healthy grapes that have not been exposed to the Botrytis fungus is of the highest priority. This means that fine, extremely elegant wines with a filigree minerality and plenty of tension are created – wines that are likely to be closed in their youth. (Bio-control agreement with Lacon since August 2008 for production of grapes.)